I dont like the OEM mirrors as they seem bulky non aerodynamic
I dont know if I ever find a folding mirror option, but I found info and I want to store it just incase.
Does anyone have a jdm power folding mirror diagram? I saw the sticky but I couldnt find a diagram that applies to me. I have a 8 wire with 10 pin connector for the switch. 11 wire with a 12 pin connector for the relay. The part # on the relay is 87989-20060. If anyone has a diagram or some advise, I would appriciate it.
THESE ARE THE PINOUTS FOR THE RELAY
RELAY WIRES (looking at it from the back where the wires go INTO the unit with the locking nipple UP).
5 - Retractor reverse, left (RL) - BLUE-- to blue wire on Left Mirror
4 - Retractor limt sense forward, left (LFL) - YELLOW--to yellow on Left Mirror
(nipple)
3 - +B - BLUE/YELLOW-- +12V acc 'ON'
2 - Retractor limit sense reverse, right (LRR) - BLUE/RED-- blue/red on Right Mirror
1 - Retractor forward, right (FR) - RED/YELLOW-- red/yellow on Right Mirror
12 - Retractor reverse, right (RR) - BLUE/WHITE(white)-- blue/white on Right Mirror
11 - Retractor limit sense forward, right (LFR) - GREEN/YELLOW-- green/yellow on Right Mirror
10 - retractor switch (S) - PINK-- pink on switch
9 - GND - WHITE(white)/BLACK-- ground
8 - not connected (possibly auto retract function?)
7 - Retractor limit sense reverse, left (LRL) - BROWN-- brown on Left Mirror
6 - Retractor forward, left (FL) - GREEN-- green on Left Mirror
This is from the circuit board of the integration relay itself. R and F go to the motor, LF and and LR go to the sensor (the switch inside the mirror itself). I don't believe the motor should be driven directly but rather via the limit sensors so the motur turns off when it reaches the end of its throw.
Two other notes: The lime wire with red stripe from the adjuster switch goes to both mirrors. Also, my integration relay has a slightly different number to the other one posted in this thread (it is one digit different): 87989-20060.
SWITCH PINOUTS
I see that you guys have been struggling with this for a while, now. Here is a complete wiring diagram for the older style 94-99 JDM power folding mirrors. Older style meaning the type WITH the single pink wire coming from the control unit/relay (...the switch is the switch, the control unit/relay is the seperate box with the bunch of wires coming from it...just to get the nomenclature straight). #1 pin is ALWAYS UPPER LEFT PIN of coupler when looking at the coupler from the views explained below.
wire color examples:
GREEN = SOLID GREEN WIRE
GREEN/YELLOW = GREEN WIRE WITH YELLOW STRIPE
YELLOW/GREEN = YELLOW WIRE WITH GREEN STRIPE
CONTROL UNIT/RELAY WIRES(looking at it from the back where the wires go INTO the unit with the locking nipple UP).
1-BLUE-- to blue wire on Left Mirror
2-YELLOW--to yellow on Left Mirror
3-BLUE/YELLOW-- +12V acc 'ON'
4-BLUE/RED-- blue/red on Right Mirror
5-RED/YELLOW-- red/yellow on Right Mirror
6-BLUE/WHITE(white)-- blue/white on Right Mirror
7-GREEN/YELLOW-- green/yellow on Right Mirror
8-PINK-- pink on switch
9-WHITE(white)/BLACK-- ground
10-BROWN-- brown on Left Mirror
11-GREEN-- green on Left Mirror
SWITCH WIRES (from same view as relay unit stated above)
1-PINK-- noted above
2-LIME/BLACK-- same color on Right Mirror
3-BROWN/WHITE(white)-- same color on Left Mirror
4-BROWN/YELLOW-- same color on Left Mirror
5-GRAY-- constant +12V
6-LIME-- same color on Right Mirror
7-LIME/RED-- same color on Left Mirror
8-WHITE(white)/BLACK-- +12V acc 'ON'
I am a seller of JDM items. This is the wiring as I used to test the latest set of Celica mirrors that I am selling (or sold, depending on when you see this post) on ebay(ebay seller id JDMISME). As for the new type, I have yet to confirm personally whether or not there is a relay in that particular vehicle. When and if I ever find out, I will let you all know with another wiring diagram.
If you have any questions (or ''huh?? wtf are you talkin' about?" 's) just let me know. I'm human and I may have mis-typed something... Or I'm super human and I never make a mistake...lol! we'll see!
http://www.yellowsun.plus.com/how2/retractmirror.html
Why?
All Celicas have electrically adjustable mirrors, but Japan kept the best goodies for themselves, which means exclusivity, along with the fact that anything motorized is fun. Add Marky's envy into the equation and the only sane conclusion is that these things are cool If you think of the front of a car as looking like a face, then this is the equivalent of being able to waggle your ears!
What you need
The short version
* Join the wires from the new mirror's adjuster motors into the existing loom.
* Add two wires from the new control to each mirror for the retractor motors.
* Play with the new toys until the battery goes flat.
The long version
Having decided whether you need to rebuild your mirrors or go with straight Jap ones, you can fit whatever you've chosen back onto the doors.
Connecting things up.
From here on it's just a matter of putting everything back. Easy!
Gloating
Lastly, and I'll let you struggle with this one, you need work out how to post a picture of the mirrors actually moving on the forum. Because as we all know........."no pic, no mod"
I dont know if I ever find a folding mirror option, but I found info and I want to store it just incase.
Does anyone have a jdm power folding mirror diagram? I saw the sticky but I couldnt find a diagram that applies to me. I have a 8 wire with 10 pin connector for the switch. 11 wire with a 12 pin connector for the relay. The part # on the relay is 87989-20060. If anyone has a diagram or some advise, I would appriciate it.
THESE ARE THE PINOUTS FOR THE RELAY
RELAY WIRES (looking at it from the back where the wires go INTO the unit with the locking nipple UP).
5 - Retractor reverse, left (RL) - BLUE-- to blue wire on Left Mirror
4 - Retractor limt sense forward, left (LFL) - YELLOW--to yellow on Left Mirror
(nipple)
3 - +B - BLUE/YELLOW-- +12V acc 'ON'
2 - Retractor limit sense reverse, right (LRR) - BLUE/RED-- blue/red on Right Mirror
1 - Retractor forward, right (FR) - RED/YELLOW-- red/yellow on Right Mirror
12 - Retractor reverse, right (RR) - BLUE/WHITE(white)-- blue/white on Right Mirror
11 - Retractor limit sense forward, right (LFR) - GREEN/YELLOW-- green/yellow on Right Mirror
10 - retractor switch (S) - PINK-- pink on switch
9 - GND - WHITE(white)/BLACK-- ground
8 - not connected (possibly auto retract function?)
7 - Retractor limit sense reverse, left (LRL) - BROWN-- brown on Left Mirror
6 - Retractor forward, left (FL) - GREEN-- green on Left Mirror
This is from the circuit board of the integration relay itself. R and F go to the motor, LF and and LR go to the sensor (the switch inside the mirror itself). I don't believe the motor should be driven directly but rather via the limit sensors so the motur turns off when it reaches the end of its throw.
Two other notes: The lime wire with red stripe from the adjuster switch goes to both mirrors. Also, my integration relay has a slightly different number to the other one posted in this thread (it is one digit different): 87989-20060.
SWITCH PINOUTS
I see that you guys have been struggling with this for a while, now. Here is a complete wiring diagram for the older style 94-99 JDM power folding mirrors. Older style meaning the type WITH the single pink wire coming from the control unit/relay (...the switch is the switch, the control unit/relay is the seperate box with the bunch of wires coming from it...just to get the nomenclature straight). #1 pin is ALWAYS UPPER LEFT PIN of coupler when looking at the coupler from the views explained below.
wire color examples:
GREEN = SOLID GREEN WIRE
GREEN/YELLOW = GREEN WIRE WITH YELLOW STRIPE
YELLOW/GREEN = YELLOW WIRE WITH GREEN STRIPE
CONTROL UNIT/RELAY WIRES(looking at it from the back where the wires go INTO the unit with the locking nipple UP).
1-BLUE-- to blue wire on Left Mirror
2-YELLOW--to yellow on Left Mirror
3-BLUE/YELLOW-- +12V acc 'ON'
4-BLUE/RED-- blue/red on Right Mirror
5-RED/YELLOW-- red/yellow on Right Mirror
6-BLUE/WHITE(white)-- blue/white on Right Mirror
7-GREEN/YELLOW-- green/yellow on Right Mirror
8-PINK-- pink on switch
9-WHITE(white)/BLACK-- ground
10-BROWN-- brown on Left Mirror
11-GREEN-- green on Left Mirror
SWITCH WIRES (from same view as relay unit stated above)
1-PINK-- noted above
2-LIME/BLACK-- same color on Right Mirror
3-BROWN/WHITE(white)-- same color on Left Mirror
4-BROWN/YELLOW-- same color on Left Mirror
5-GRAY-- constant +12V
6-LIME-- same color on Right Mirror
7-LIME/RED-- same color on Left Mirror
8-WHITE(white)/BLACK-- +12V acc 'ON'
I am a seller of JDM items. This is the wiring as I used to test the latest set of Celica mirrors that I am selling (or sold, depending on when you see this post) on ebay(ebay seller id JDMISME). As for the new type, I have yet to confirm personally whether or not there is a relay in that particular vehicle. When and if I ever find out, I will let you all know with another wiring diagram.
If you have any questions (or ''huh?? wtf are you talkin' about?" 's) just let me know. I'm human and I may have mis-typed something... Or I'm super human and I never make a mistake...lol! we'll see!
http://www.yellowsun.plus.com/how2/retractmirror.html
Why?
All Celicas have electrically adjustable mirrors, but Japan kept the best goodies for themselves, which means exclusivity, along with the fact that anything motorized is fun. Add Marky's envy into the equation and the only sane conclusion is that these things are cool If you think of the front of a car as looking like a face, then this is the equivalent of being able to waggle your ears!
What you need
| * A pair of Japanese spec mirrors. If your existing
ones are OK you only need the motorized units as all the other bits are
interchangeable. * A Japanese control unit. It's essential you get the plug that fits in the back of the control unit, cut from the Japanese loom with wires attached. The UK plug does not fit, it's completely different. * Various bits of wire, crimps, cable ties, sleeving, tape etc. depending on how professional you want the install to be and you own abilities. Seriously, this job does require that you can do basic auto-electrical work without blowing up or setting light to you or your car. Although I didn't myself, if you're not totally confident with electrics then it's best to disconnect the battery before you start. You also need to be able to remove various bits of plastic trim with out breaking them. If you've never done this sort of thing before then you probably ought get someone who has to help you. |
|
The short version
* Join the wires from the new mirror's adjuster motors into the existing loom.
* Add two wires from the new control to each mirror for the retractor motors.
* Play with the new toys until the battery goes flat.
The long version
Having decided whether you need to rebuild your mirrors or go with straight Jap ones, you can fit whatever you've chosen back onto the doors.
| A pair of wires is needed to connect the retractor
control to the passenger side mirror. That is, from the driver's door, into
the car, across the car, and into the passenger door. This probably the worst
bit of the job. The existing wiring loom connects to the doors through flexible
rubber hoses, These can accommodate extra wires, but the ends are difficult
to get to. To get to the door side, remove the door speaker (4 screws and the plug on the top). To get to the car side, the kick panel needs to come out (pull the trim strip off the edge by the door, take out the single screw from the far edge of the kick panel, prise up the front of the plastic sill trim, and the panel will come out). It's then a matter of trying to fish wires through holes that you can just get to with your fingers but can't actually see. How I do it is to fiddle a piece of stiff wire (welding rod or thin coat hanger) through from one side, and then attach the wires to it with electrical tape and pull it back through. Be careful when poking stiff wire anywhere that you don't damage the existing wiring. Once inside the car, the route for the wires isn't too critical. They're low current power lines so there's problem with interference like there is with audio wiring. I just tucked them up underneath the dash and behind the centre console and cable tied them in a few strategic points to stop them falling out. |
View with passenger side kick panel and glove box removed |
Connecting things up.
| I spliced the new wires in behind the existing plugs
and fitted new plugs and sockets that I got from RS. I did this so that everything
can be removed and original units can be plugged back in if necessary. Of
course you can just cut the old plug off the loom and attach the new wires
to the old ones if you want to. The old and new wire colours for the control units are the same so you just join colour to colour. Control unit
|
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The mirror wires are not the same colours though
|
Colour code GY = Grey W = White BK = Black BL = Blue BR = Brown R = Red Y = Yellow GR = Green LG = Light Green |
From here on it's just a matter of putting everything back. Easy!
Gloating
Lastly, and I'll let you struggle with this one, you need work out how to post a picture of the mirrors actually moving on the forum. Because as we all know........."no pic, no mod"
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