About my Previa and Sienna

I dont like the OEM mirrors as they seem bulky non aerodynamic I dont know if I ever find a folding mirror option, but I found info and I want to store it just incase. Does anyone have a jdm power folding mirror diagram? I saw the sticky but I couldnt find a diagram that applies to me. I have a 8 wire with 10 pin connector for the switch. 11 wire with a 12 pin connector for the relay. The part # on the relay is 87989-20060. If anyone has a diagram or some advise, I would appriciate it.  THESE ARE THE PINOUTS FOR THE RELAY RELAY WIRES (looking at it from the back where the wires go INTO the unit with the locking nipple UP). 5 - Retractor reverse, left (RL) - BLUE -- to blue wire on Left Mirror 4 - Retractor limt sense forward, left (LFL) - YELLOW --to yellow on Left Mirror (nipple) 3 - +B - BLUE / YELLOW -- +12V acc 'ON' 2 - Retractor limit sense reverse, right (LRR) - BLUE / RED -- blue/red on Right Mirror 1 - Retractor forward, right (FR) - RED / YELLO

Well, you might have read about it. Toyota does not have a maint. schedule suggestion of the superchargers. When I bought my Previa, I planned on doing it, but ended up focusing on other things. It was on my "to do task list". I did some forum research and people talked about how to do it, and with a syringe. Anyways, since I have been fixing and replacing this this past weekend, I FINALLY decided to do this. I did a quick search again to what fluid to use. I found that GM brand (AC Delco) GM Part Number: NAL-12345982 was an option. Bought 2 bottles that measured 4oz each... the total came out to $19.31 I had a syringe sitting for this project, slapped on a vacuum hose and got it ready. -Got underneath. -17 mm to break lose the drain plug and let it drain. The oil smelt burnt. -Took out the dip stick and drain bolt and cleaned them up really quick. -Snaked the hose up to dip stick hole and filled it until supercharger fluid spewed out. -----------------

I am a hardcore options person. I love OEM options on vehicles for some reason... When I started looking at Previas, I noticed that some have a cargo cover. Found out they were available on Canadian models mainly, but also in the 1997 US spec previas. TheMan on TVT supplied this info and I will probably get into these once I get other things taken cared of. His post is pretty much the only one I could find any info about it. seat back hooks, gray: 64928-28010-B0.... 4x hooks MSRP: $7.12, price at Conicelli: $5.48 90152-60005.... 4x screws MSRP: $0.78, price at Conicelli: $0.60 plastic tonneau cover holder, gray: 64935-28010-B0, right side MSRP: $19.54, price at Conicelli: $15.05 64936-28010-B0, left side MSRP: $10.72, price at Conicelli: $8.25 metal brackets for plastic tonneau cover holders: 64933-28010, right side MSRP: $8.72, price at Conicelli: $6.71 64934-28010, left side MSRP: $8.75, price at Conicelli: $6.74 93311-16014... 6x screws

While I was removing the left side panel, and realized I had to remove the rear seat to get the panel out, I decided to do the same on the opposite side. I wanted to clean the junk and crap that has been sitting behind panels. This also gave me a chance to look at my sliding door track (which seemed loose) and fix the middle slider assembly. BEFORE YOU TAKE OFF THE MIDDLE ASSEMBLY, THIS WILL MAKE THE REAR OF THE SLIDING DOOR "FALL"... SO BE CAREFUL!!!!! In the video, I demonstrated that my sliding door will not close all the way unless I slammed it hard. I also seen on the forums that the middle slider has 2 posts that eventually wear out. Here is a picture from Toyotavantech's Tim The 2 posts have rollers on them and after so long, they wear out and in his picture, the post itself gets destroyed and has a "metal on metal" grinding sound. The quick fix is to nylon spacers and drill them out. Which is what I did. I couldn't get the pan

As I previously mentioned, the driver seat belt is frayed. I picked one up and have been sitting on it for a bit. I've procrastinated on it because I was unsure about taking off the whole interior panel (that thing is massive). Once I started, I didn't realize that I needed to remove the rear seats. And once I did that, I decided to remove the other side as well. My steps: Removed the step panel for the driver side door (3 screws). Open the trunk and remove the plastic piece on the bottom (2 screws) Those 2 pieces cover the edge of the panel. Remove middle seats (I removed my capt. chair - 4 bolts) Remove rear seat (2 bolts on the wheel well). For all the seat belts, remove the bottom bolts and wrap them around the ceiling handles. By the middle seat location, the panel has 2 small plastic round caps, remove these to expose 2 screws. Take those out. Now you can pull the panel. ----------------------------------------------- For the driver side seat belt

Alright, the last few days (nights) have been nothing but getting my "to do list" with the done. I recently cleaned out the rear A/C vents from the built up/caked on dust. Changed out the sunroof lever. I then finally got done with the Sunroof garnish issues. I have never taken the previa apart and like this and it wasn't really my intentions... but one thing led to another.  After work on Friday, I took out my mid row captain chair seats. This was to prep for removing the big left side interior panel. Come Saturday morning, I started to take the panel out to change the driver's seat belt. This seat belt was frayed and I've been waiting (procrastinating) on putting in the a newer one for a couple months. Since I never took this apart, I didn't know extensive it was. I ended up removing the left side rear folding seat and then I realized, I mind as well remove all the panels. Behind the panels were dust and cob webs and I felt that I mind as well

Inspection for the State lamp certification. Lighting should be inspected for the following deficiencies in addition to proper lamp aim:   A)Inspect all exterior lights   B)Any improper connected circuits which could cause the lamps not to function or switch beams correctly.   C)A head lamp beam indicator lamp that does not indicate the proper beam to driver and function.   D)A cracked, broke or missing lens   E) Any cracked or chipped aiming pads   F)A lens that is rotated up side down, wrong side or is otherwise incorrectly installed   G)A lens marker "left" or "right" not properly installed   H)A lamp with dirt or moisture inside or any obvious discoloration   I)A lamp which is not securely fastened to the vehicle   J)A lamp showing a beam or color contrary to law or regulation   K)Any defects in wiring that could adversely affect the performance of a lamp.   L)Any auxiliary equipment, screens or plastic covers placed on/in or in front lamp.   M)B

I had to get my Previa state inspected for the Brake Certificate. This is what the inspection included: Road test brake system for pull, vibrations, brake efficiency and stopping distance. Tested Parking brake function. Very service brake & Parking brake pedal pads (rubber brake pedal changed) Inspect brake warning light system. Inspect brake lights. Inspect brake fluid condition and level. Inspect hydraulic system for leaks Inspect brake booster operation Inspect brake lining thickness. Measure the brake drum and disc brake rotor thickness Check from brake rotor parallelism Check that the brake drums/rotors are not out of round. check the wheel bearings for excessive play. Inspect suspension components for wear that could effect braking.

I usually take the preventative measure approach and with the Previa, the previous owner did a GREAT JOB of keeping track of everything he did. Also the owner before him had a typed list of what was done while he had it for a few years. Going down the list, there were a few things that have never been touched!!! Alternator - DONE Fuel pump and filter Starter - DONE Fan Clutch Brake master cylinder and stainless steel brake lines. Wheel bearings - DONE Fumoto Valve - Decided not to do. Grounding kit These ARE important parts that keep the van going. So with that said, I had to do a quick look and figure out what these things cost and how to do them. Alternator - It appears the alternator has never been replaced. I am actively looking for a rebuild kit as Tim on TVT has demonstrated that the contacts are the worn parts and that the OEM ones were built very well, while re-manufactured ones used weaker components (I think the soldering goes bad?). Denso Alternators were

EGR system clean and Code P0401 This is another MUST DO on the previas, especially if you are having issues and code P0401 being thrown. P0401 is "Exhaust Gas Recirculation flow insufficient detected".  Parts: - EGR intake gasket - 25628-76010 - this is on the far right side next to the exhaust. - EGR valve gasket - 25627-76010 - used for the EGR valve to the intake manifold.  -Air inlet duct gasket - 22273-76010 - this is where the air goes into the intake manifold and where   the EGR port gets plugged. 1 container of coolant I did buy a set of crow's feet and Universal joints for the Exhaust pipe. I followed Zenseeker's photo's on every single detail. If you haven't visit his website (http://zenseeker.net/Previa/PreviaMaintenance.htm), it is a treasure trove of information!!!  Zenseeker gets the credit and this would have been impossible for me to do without those pictures! **The pictures are located at the bottom of this po

If you are unsure of the history of your previa, I would suggest doing this as part of the maint task list. If you seen my earlier post with previadiaries and TheMan's images, their IACV needed the cleaning. I feel the flake filter is a MUST DO. This is a problem for supercharged previas. Going down to the IAC valve and cleaning it out is just good maint. and this can be were problems arise. The parts I ordered: For under the hood: - Fram G15 inline filter -  this for the flakes going into the ventilation tube. - 2 small hose clamps for the filter. - Throttle body gasket - 22271-76020 - IAC valve rubber gasket - 22215-76010 - gasket between the IACV and Throttle body - IAC valve screws (set of 4) - 21821-25180 - holds the IACV to the throttle body  Removed air duct and some of the big hoses that are in the way. After detaching hosing to the Throttle body and removal (4 bolts, 2 tiny hoses, 3 big hoses, 2 sensors), I immediately cleaned out the ventilation pi